Seattle Seattle, WA
Accomodations
Watertown (University District) Watertown is a bit out of the way, so why stay there? You can save up to 50 percent off downtown prices, get equally good (or better) service, and, if you’ve rented a car, quick access to I-5. No rental car? Watertown will furnish a free bicycle or shuttle service to Pike Place Market or Seattle Center. www.watertownseattle.com.
Alexis (Downtown) Hip without being too edgy, the Alexis is just a couple blocks from Pike Place Market and an easy walk to Elysian Fields and Chinatown. The Alexis offers a variety of rooms, from small studios to huge two-bedroom suites. www.alexishotel.com.
Hotel Ändra (Downtown) One of the best perks at this Belltown boutique hotel is room service from Tom Douglas’ Greek restaurant, Lola, housed on the first floor. The rooms are decked out in earth tones and feature large desks and Wi-Fi, handy whether you’re a business traveler or just need to research pubs before going out. www.hotelandra.com.
Inn at Queen Anne (Lower Queen Anne) A budget option, this hotel is in the Uptown neighborhood, convenient to Seattle Center (including the monorail which zips you downtown), Belltown restaurants, and the new Olympic Sculpture Park. All rooms feature kitchenettes, which means you can wander down the block to Metropolitan Market, an upscale grocery, and pick up fixings for a gourmet dinner on the cheap. www.innatqueenanne.com.
Pan Pacific (South Lake Union) What other hotel has a complete Whole Foods store (featuring a great beer selection, of course) off the lobby? And yes, they deliver. This new, no-holds-barred luxury hotel is pricey, but worth it. And while it’s not as centrally located as some of the other hotels, bus or taxi access to downtown and Capitol Hill is convenient. www.panpacific.com/seattle.
Dining
Union (Downtown) A few years ago, chef Ethan Stowell transformed this dull downtown corner with some of the most delicious and inventive food in town. He’s particularly talented with seafood, eschewing clichéd Seattle fish preparations in favor of clever dishes like fluke crudo with cucumber, lime and ginger. www.unionseattle.com.
Dinette (Capitol Hill) At this cozy spot on Capitol Hill, chef Melissa Nyffler cooks up seasonal food that is often French- or Italian-inspired but always has her stamp on it. Try her fresh pastas (meaty or vegetarian), a platter of toasts with savory toppings (don’t miss the rabbit rillettes), or the entrée specials on the chalkboard. www.dinnetteseattle.com.
Palace Kitchen (Downtown) Tom Douglas owns six restaurants and is as close as you can get to Seattle royalty – and at the Palace, he’s at his unpretentious and full-flavored best. The burger is among the best in town, with organic beef grilled medium rare and a platter of unusual toppings (pickled green tomatoes, if you’re lucky). Douglas likes to play around with international influences, but never in a precious way, and his cheese plate is all-American. http://tomdouglas.com/palace.
May (Wallingford) Pad Thai is probably the single most popular dish in Seattle, so don’t even think of missing this spicy plate. Extravagant without being expensive, May is housed in an actual Bangkok house that was shipped over and reassembled, and equal care is put into the food. Try the squid, papaya salad and yes, Pad Thai. www.mayrestaurant.com.
Green Leaf (International District) In terms of its Seattle popularity, Vietnamese food is nipping at Thai’s heels. Step into little Green Leaf for some of the best in town, and enjoy the casually excellent service. It’s a tough call between the duck salad and the green mango salad with grilled prawns, but for less than $10 each, try both. Or come in during lunch for Seattle’s favorite soup, pho, a rice noodle soup with various cuts of beef. 206.340.1388.
Entertainment
Go Fish (Downtown) One of the nation’s oldest and greatest farmers markets turns 100 this year. Far from a tourist trap, this working markets serves visitors and locals alike. Watch workers throw fish (as seen on TV) at Pike Place Fish; stop for lunch at Matt’s in the Market, Café Champagne, or Market Grill; and shop on the lower levels. Don’t miss Daily Dozen Doughnuts, with a “doughnut robot” that turns out hundreds an hour. www.pikeplacemarkt.org.
Rock Out The city that gave you Nirvana, Pearl Jam and, uh, Kenny G. continues to have a thriving local music scene. For clubs and shows check the local papers (especially the Stranger weekly), or for a self-guided tour, consult the Seattle Music Map. www.seattle.gove/music/map.
Ride a Boat (Downtown, West Seattle) Washington’s ferry system is the nation’s largest, and it’s a relaxing way to get a great view of the city and Elliot Bay. A round-trip ride to Brainbridge Island (30 minutes each way) runs $6.50, and you can get off on the island and wander around. In summer, a water taxi connects downtown and West Seattle, where you can eat at Alki Fish & Crab Co. or catch a bus to the beach. http://wsdot.wa.gov/ferries, or http://transitmetrokc.gove/tops/oto/water_taxi.html.
Row a Boat (University District) In summer, have a picnic on the beautiful University of Washington campus, then rent a canoe or kayak at the UW boathouse and paddle around Lake Washington. It’s inexpensive, safe for beginners and even (despite rowing under many freeway ramps) a little romantic. http://depts.washington.edu/ima/IMA_wac.php.
Eat Chocolate (Freemont) Seattle is home to one of the nation’s only independent chocolate factories, Theo (which, coincidentally, is housed in the old Redhook Brewery building). Take one of the daily $5 tours, or just scarf down the goods: Theo’s wares are all organic and Fair Trade certified, and include unusual treats like the Bread & Chocolate Bar, a Nestlé crunch-like bar made with toasted artisan breadcrumbs. http://theochocolate.com.
Drinks
Pike Brewing Company (Downtown) Founded by microbrew pioneer Charles Finkel in 1989, the Pike is a Seattle original. Housed in a striking multilevel industrial space inside Pike Place Market, the Pike offers its own beers (such as Kilt Lifter Scotch-style ale) on tap, plus rotating guest taps and bottles. The food is simple but good pub grub, including a local cheese plate. www.pikebrewing.com.
Pyramid Brewing (Lake Union) Pyramid has been making waves since 1985 when it crafted the first American draft wheat beer since Prohibition. Today, it consistently offers four year-round brews, two seasonals and a few exclusives you can find at the Pyramid Alehouse (just across the street from Safeco Field, home of the Mariners). Visit soon for the summer brew, Curve Ball kolsch.
Elysian Brewing Co. (Pioneer Square) With other locations on Capitol Hill and in Tangletown, Elysian is a local powerhouse. Its flagship Elysian Fields location opened last year in Pioneer Square, convenient to the sports stadiums, with an ambitious menu featuring Dungess crab cakes and flat iron steak with mushroom ragout. Elysian’s regular lineup is always on tap, plus seasonal beers such as Night Owl Pumpkin Ale and Avatar Jasmine IPA. www.elysianbrewing.com.
Redhook (Woodinville)The original Seattle craft brewery, Redhook was founded in 1981, and its ESB has long been a Seattle staple. Now located in suburban Woodinville, Redhook is worth the drive for quality (if basic) fare and reasonable priced beers, including a seasonal cask offering. Try the five-beer sampler for $5. www.redhook.com.
Maritime Pacific Brewing Co. (Ballard) Ballard was once a working class Scandinavian neighborhood; it’s now Seattle’s hipsterville. Maritime Pacific Brewing’s Jolly Roger Taproom is festooned with pirate gear, but the beer is serious: There are 13 taps, including Maritime’s original Flagship Red Alt Ale, plus two or three cask-conditioned brews at any given time. And the nicely added touch: the menu includes suggested beer pairings. http://maritimebrewery.citysearch.com.
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