Magazines » January/February 2009 Issue » DRAFT Pick: Russian River Supplication
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Russian River’s Vinnie Cilurzo has mastered the artistry long associated with Belgian brewing. He started with Damnation, a Belgian golden ale (it got its name from the tradition of this high-octane style paying homage to the devil), which was followed by three more Belgian-inspired brews: Salvation, Sanctification, and Temptation. These quickly became some of the most sought-after beers in the country. Supplication was Vinnie’s next addition to this holy (nearly sinful) lineup, and among beer enthusiasts, professional brewers, importers, and distributors that make their way to his brewery, one sentiment stands: It is truly a religious experience.
Aged with tart cherries in oak barrels that once housed pinot noir, Supplication has a golden hue accentuated by orange highlights. A casual sniff of this beer is all it takes to recognize its place among the sour ale family, with a mild musty grain note that is taken over by hints of almond and acidic sourness. The cherries are not subtle in the aroma, either: Even though their sweetness is all but fermented away, there is still a fleshy tart quality.
To taste Supplication is to be reminded that beer can be as complex as any other edible out there. With a backbone of pale barley, the flavor dives deeply into the characteristics produced by wild yeast strains in fermentation: fruity, dry, and sour. The profile’s wine aspect also surfaces, with oak and tannic grape astringency. As with the aroma, the cherries come through clean, somewhat understated and wonderfully refreshing. You’ll also find almond notes -- slightly sweet, but not oily, and just enough to round off the flavor profile. The beer’s body is sturdy, not heavy or light, with high carbonation.
Cilurzo has long been considered a beacon in the industry, and at any beer festival, you’ll find mile-long lines of connoisseurs hoping to get a picture of him pouring one of his creations. With a beer like Supplication, it’s easy to understand what all the fuss is about.
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This article originally appeared in the January/February 2009 Issue of DRAFT Magazine
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