Magazines » September/October 2009 » Nine Beer Innovators to Watch
Now approaching a decade of unbridled growth, craft beer is clearly no fad. It’s also no secret that inventive men and women -- those watching the brew kettles, teaching at brewing institutes, manning the stoves at beer-centric restaurants -- are responsible for creating fine brews and the buzz that makes them worthy of the limelight.
Here, we meet nine people committed to furthering the cause of craft beer; among them, a homebrewer-turned-professional, a pro brewer-turned-hop farmer and a Mexican brewer who won’t go near a lime. And who better to tell us about the ones to watch than the ones we’ve had our eye on for years? Some brewers we recognize on a first-name basis (Tomme, Jim and Sam) offer their thoughts on these inventive newcomers. Plus, those who’ve worked with (and married) these innovators chime in on what they’ve done, where they’re going, and why we should be paying attention.
Ron Gregerson
Founder, Microbeer Source, a mobile bottling service
By Dick Cantwell
I was naïve enough, when Ron Gregerson approached me about swinging by Elysian every now and then to bottle our beer, to think it was an idea that had nothing to do with us. We were a pub, and we were concerned with the pure experience of enjoying draft beer at its source. I was even quoted in the New York Times, stating unequivocally that we would never bottle our beer. I was also not as nice to Ron as I should have been.
Well, I was wrong, and I’ve since apologized (to Ron, not the Times). Ron and his mobile bottling line have been an integral part of our continued expansion. His idea made it possible for us to have samples to give to our distributor reps, and to have the cases necessary to get into markets we might never have touched: Oregon, Alaska, New York City, and Philadelphia, as well as greater coverage in our home, Seattle. When I describe what we are able to do through Ron to my craft brewing friends in other parts of the country, they all wish they had as ready and effective a resource.
Ron’s idea is not a new one in the wine industry, or in some segments of the agricultural world, where owners of specialized equipment make it possible for small producers to contract for a service they wouldn’t otherwise be able to perform. In the realm of small (and especially pub) brewers, to have at your disposal a well-maintained bottling line that shows up then wheels away is a godsend. It adds a dimension to our business that initial plans didn’t take into account.
We get Ron or one of his assistants at Elysian every Sunday. There’s a tradition that the most hungover or fumble-prone member of our crew wears a sombrero leftover from a United States vs. Mexico World Cup match some years ago. Given the confidence with which I once dismissed the idea Ron had for Microbeer Source, I continue to figuratively wear that hat.
Dick Cantwell is the co-founder and head brewer of Elysian Brewing.
Ray Daniels
Founder, the Cicerone Certification Program
By Randy Mosher
When I first met him about 1990, Ray was suffused with that new homebrewer glow, a sort of puppy love, the world filled with delicious possibilities. We all go through that phase; the thing with Ray is that he likes to actually get things done. And so he has. Using the Chicago Beer Society as a test bed, Ray organized some events -- like the Brewpub Shootout -- that helped build the club’s reputation and organizational skills.
Small successes led to bigger dreams. His book, “Designing Great Beers,” came out in 1996, revolutionizing the way we formulate recipes and understand styles. It’s a classic to this day, and will be updated soon (right, Ray?). He became a champion of real ale, and with some help, produced the largest cask ale event the Western hemisphere has ever seen, at its peak presenting fest-goers with more than 300 firkins of perfectly conditioned ales -- a Herculean task
Ray hooked up with the Brewers Association, holding several important jobs there. He edited Zymurgy and New Brewer for several years, turned the sickly Brewers Publications division into a real contributor to the BA, getting such classics to market as, ahem, “Radical Brewing,” “How to Brew,” and the three-book series on wild, monastic, and farmhouse Belgian ales, among others. He boldly proposed the Craft Beer Marketing Program, which he built from scratch and remains in place today. Ray and I joined the faculty of Chicago’s Siebel Institute at the same time, and still do a number of programs together there.
Lately, Ray has handed off all his BA duties to concentrate on a new project, the Cicerone Certification Program. Launched last year, it’s the beer world’s equivalent of sommelier certification. It’s a much-needed program, and interest has been strong. Now, demand for a training component has him furiously working to build up a solid body of training material.
There aren’t many people out there with a beer resumé this distinguished. On top of it all, he’s decent, generous, and a damn fine person to drink beer and dream big dreams with. I’m proud to be able to call him a fast friend and co-conspirator. I can’t wait to see what he cooks up next.
Randy Mosher is a Chicago-based beer journalist. His new book, “Tasting Beer,” is on shelves now.
Sean Wilson
Founder of North Carolina’s “Pop the Cap” movement and owner of Fullsteam Brewery
By Theresa Kostrzewa
The first time I met Sean was for dinner when he was interviewing lobbyists to represent the “Pop the Cap” campaign, which aimed to raise the state’s cap on beer from 6% ABV to 15%. We met, of course, at a brewpub called Alehouse. Sean had done a lot of the work before I even started; “Pop the Cap” was out there as an idea, and he’d already cultivated membership. The best way to accomplish anything is to have constituents, and with grassroots efforts, he already had people willing to contact their legislators. They didn’t have a lot of money or big breweries behind them; it was so small-scale it was adorable, but it worked. Sean was the spearhead, and he’d never say die.
When you talk about an issue like alcohol, it’s rife with potential problems. “No” is the first answer you get. The most important thing was to get out in front of the issue and frame it. I liken it to war: You want to take the hill. The first thing we did was get a local news channel to do a story on “Pop the Cap.” We needed to demonstrate that these beers weren’t Bud Light on steroids. Step two was to familiarize legislators with craft beer. We decided to have a series of beer tastings with legislators in my home, and that was great fun. By the time the bill was introduced, I think about a third of the 170 members had attended the tastings. House Bill 392 was officially introduced in February 2005, and was passed and signed in August of that year -- very quickly, but not because it was easy. We just never quit.
Being involved with Sean was a watershed time for me. “Pop the Cap” was like the Super Bowl of lobbying, and we won. The hardest thing to do is to get a bill passed, but then when it’s alcohol-related and in North Carolina, it’s next to impossible. It will probably forever be one of the greatest accomplishments I personally ever had. And Sean hasn’t given up the fight. When Sean opened his brewery, Fullsteam, he called me and said, “Listen, we can do wine tastings in this state but not beer tastings?” I gave him all the information I had, and he followed through and did it. A bill to allow beer tastings has passed the House, gone through one committee in the Senate, is currently in the Senate Finance Committee, and I’m 100-percent positive it will become law, all because of Sean.
Theresa Kostrzewa is the president of Capitol Advantage Associates in Raleigh, N.C., and lobbied for “Pop the Cap.”
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Patrick Rue
Founder, The Bruery
By Sam Calagione
In my humble opinion, the world doesn’t need another lawyer. But the world does need more inventive, creative, inspired craft brewers. So I’m glad Patrick Rue dumped law school and opened The Bruery in Placentia, Calif. Patrick and his co-workers at The Bruery make unique, naturally-carbonated beers that are light-years away from the generic light lager style that dominates the American beer landscape. Thankfully, the craft brewing renaissance is gaining traction, and full-flavor beers are leading the charge.
In fact, even in the recession American craft beer is outpacing the growth of the big industrial brewing conglomerates. There’s nothing industrial about the way The Bruery makes its beers. They’re brewed by hand on a tiny traditional brewing system that utilizes direct fire as opposed to modern steam, and the staff packages beer by hand in Champagne bottles that are just the right size for sharing with friends and loved ones. Once you try the beer, though, you may not want to share it.
The Bruery offers a range of inspired brews, but my favorite is Orchard White; it’s an almost-traditional Belgian wheat, save for a sprinkling of fresh lavender that gives it a heavenly floral note and sets it apart from the fray. Another cool thing about The Bruery is that it’s in the heart of Orange County, Calif. For whatever reason, the greater L.A. area happens to be one of the last major metro areas in the country to get behind the craft beer explosion. It now has a local ambassador in Patrick. Patrick and his wife, Rachel, recently visited us at Dogfish Head, and we immediately recognized him as a kindred spirit. Like us, he is all about beer first, business second -- that’s the best business model for a craft brewer. You don’t have to meet him to know this; you only need to seek out and enjoy one of his beers. The Bruery is small, but the beers are as big and ambitious as Patrick’s brewing philosophy. As it says on the Bruery’s Web site: “Our calling is to create beers with character using the simplest and purest of means.” Mission accomplished.
Sam Calagione is the founder and president of Dogfish Head Craft Brewery.
Mario Garcia
CEO of Cucapá Brewing
By Tomme Arthur
Two-and-a-half hours east of San Diego in the border town of Mexicali, Mexico, it’s 122 degrees in the shade as a couple of buddies try to beat the heat with a bucket of suds and a pile of limes. It’s a classic August day with an oppressive heat baking souls like hell’s oven. The beer is crisp, flavorless, and ice cold. Yet, quietly down the street, there’s a revolution unfolding at Cucapá Brewing. There, Mario Garcia and his brewers are hard at work, crafting a better Mexican beer. It’s quite likely you’ve never heard of them, but for nine years, this little brewery’s churned out some of the most interesting beer south of the border to little or no local fanfare, despite the fact that its barleywine is a multiple finalist at the acclaimed annual Toronado Barleywine Festival, and a gold-medalist at the 2006 World Beer Championship.
Working against the stereotypes of Mexican beer, Cucapá’s production includes eight different brands, from a light lager to an imperial stout, five of which rank 3.0 or higher on Ratebeer.com. I’m constantly impressed by these guys and their determination, but then again, I have to be. Not only did I help Mario with the construction and consultation of the brewery, I also helped develop his first line of beers. Though it’s been nine years since I first walked through Cucapá’s doors, I’m not the least bit surprised by its success, in short, because these guys get it. The passionate team understands that showcasing flavor is what beer should do, rather than simply refresh. Mario knows it hasn’t been easy as one of the pioneers of craft brewing in Mexico, and neither I, nor anyone else in the industry this side of the border, could give him a roadmap for success. Rewind a few decades, and it’s not dissimilar to our own craft brewing movement.
There are always those willing to take chances, measure the risks and reap the rewards. For that, I’m happy to know Mario, and to have offered my assistance when I could. Here’s hoping that Cucapá continues its trend-setting ways, and inspires others to put down the limes.
Tomme Arthur is the director of brewery operations at Port Brewing and The Lost Abbey.
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Dan Weirback
Founder, Weyerbacher Brewing and, as of 2008, a hop grower
By Sue Weirback
My husband started Weyerbacher Brewing in 1995, just as the first East Coast craft brewing wave was cresting. By 1996, most small craft breweries were in a fight for their lives, including us. Dan’s resourcefulness and innovative way of looking at the market kicked in. He began to introduce new, innovative styles while eliminating the more mainstream brands. He won release from most wholesaler contracts and began selling and delivering product directly to the retailers. This approach gave him clear insights into the retailers’ problems and issues as well as the consumer interests, allowing him to make better and better product introduction decisions. In 1998, we opened a brewpub connected to the brewery to increase cash flow and help keep the doors open. It also provided a grassroots marketing vehicle, opportunities to brew new styles and try them out on pub customers.
During much of that time, Dan was a veritable “whirling dervish.” Although he had a few employees, he was head brewer, chief sales person, truck driver, and delivery person for all of Pennsylvania, and during the pub years, he was often the cook and dishwasher. We did whatever we had to in order to keep the doors open; I helped, but I eventually went back to work so we could make our mortgage payments. Dan regularly put in 80 to 100 hour weeks.
In 2000, he orchestrated the company’s move to our current location in Easton, Pa. and closed the pub. He chose to concentrate on building the brewery as a niche craft brewery focusing on unique and interesting beers. These days, Dan has been lucky to have a great team of employees which allows him to take time away from the brewery for his new role: hop farmer. I pressured Dan into this project last year as a way to escape my corporate job. Since then, Dan has taken over and spends all his free time caring for his crop. I think, like me, Weyerbacher fans are glad Dan is resourceful, innovative, and has a stubborn streak that has kept the brewery alive and growing for the past 14 years. We still take it one day at a time, and take nothing for granted.
Sue Weirback is Dan’s wife of 21 years. The two live in Pennsylvania with their dogs and horses.
Don Oliver
2006 Samuel Adams American Homebrew Competition winner
By Jim Koch
The poet Robert Frost said that his object in living was to unite his vocation and his avocation; Don Oliver is well on his way to achieving that goal. Like many craft brewers today, Don started as a homebrewer and, like me, his father introduced him to brewing. Beginning as an extract brewer, he quickly moved up to all-grain recipes and on to experimenting with what he calls “oddball” ingredients.
Don’s winning recipe in the Samuel Adams American Homebrew Competition in 2006 was an old ale, a rare style that can be aged and has significant alcohol strength. The recipe included a blend of American, German, and Belgian malts, creating a full-bodied brew with a malty aroma and taste without overpowering the balance or bitterness.
Timing is everything in beer, and the timing of his competition win was perfect for Don. He had been working as a helicopter mechanic and was planning to return to college when he fell in love with brewing. He found the passion he wanted for his career, and pursued it with gusto. In June 2008, he completed the University of California-Davis Master Brewers Program and got the highest score worldwide on the Diploma in Brewing exams. Last October, he went to Ireland to receive the JS Ford Award from the Institute of Brewing and Distilling.
When we started doing the Longshot Competition almost 15 years ago, it was my dream that it would be a springboard for aspiring brewers; I hoped it would bring attention to quality homebrewing and even launch a career or two. Well, Don Oliver made our goal come true, and he can now say he has united his vocation with his avocation. I recently learned that Don has been named brewer for Dust Bowl Brewing Company, a new microbrewery in Turlock, Calif.
Don’s Longshot Old Ale received high praise from beer writers and other brewers, and I know they would join me in welcoming him as a fellow professional craft brewer.
Jim Koch is the founder and brewer of Samuel Adams.
This year, Magnolia Restaurant and Pub in San Francisco and The Linkery in San Diego staged a techie “Magnolink Simul-dinner,” where each establishment shared the same beer and food and guests enjoyed each other’s company via webcam. Both restaurants are lauded for their commitment to sustainable food and excellent craft beer: The Linkery has one of the city’s finest tap selections, and Magnolia brews its own craft suds.
By David McLean
Our friends at The Linkery are leaders in the movement to build community through food and drink. They really get it. By taking a beer-centric approach to their know-your-producers mission, the people at The Linkery have created a beautiful marriage of two parallel ideals: sustainable food and excellent craft beer.
The restaurant makes sustainability both accessible and fun. Through events like weekly cask beer pairings, comfort-driven specials like Fried Chicken Fridays and Smokehouse Sundays, and journeys to the farms and producers that supply the restaurant, The Linkery staff educates its patrons on a variety of culinary concepts and inspires people to want to know more. This is powerful stuff. Few restaurants (and fewer breweries) ask the hardest sourcing questions and get to the bottom of how to run a business while also pursuing such an ambitious vision of sustainability.
Meanwhile, “house-made” may be a common buzzword in the restaurant world, but few take it to the extreme that The Linkery does. The staff makes everything from scratch, from bread to condiments to ice cream. Take, for instance, its meat program: Chef Max and the gang cure, stuff, smoke, emulsify, and otherwise turn some of the country’s finest, most well-cared-for animals into delicious food.
This borders on alchemy; it is that willingness to jump in and utterly transform ingredients this way that most closely connects them to the brewers’ art of fermentation. It’s easy for The Linkery to open people’s minds to food and beer pairing, as the food it produces dovetails quite naturally with the flavors and aesthetics of craft beer. It’s no wonder the brewing community gravitates toward this establishment.
The Linkery’s message is redolent with a contagious hope that a small group of passionate people can bring about meaningful change. The team is made up of people who don’t sit still and who take Wendell Berry’s assertion that “eating is an agricultural act” as words to live and work by. It is a joy to know them, to collaborate with them, and to dine with them. We only wish they were closer.
David McLean is the owner and brewmaster at Magnolia Pub and Brewery in
Magnolia Pub and Brewery
By Jay Porter
Magnolia Pub and Brewery is an inspirational place and a real neighborhood restaurant. When we got to know the folks at Magnolia, it was their spirit, their enthusiasm for making good friends and great food, that moved us.
It was only later, really, that we noticed the menu. Don’t take just a speedreader’s glance at it. Give yourself time for further inspection, because it’s all there: high-quality ingredients from local farms, house-made charcuterie, challenging cuts of meat, fine wines, and, of course, craft beer (even cask-conditioned beer, the best kind).
Indeed, Magnolia’s menu is everything you’d expect from the most contemporary, high-end temples to culinary skill. But when you meet the Magnolians -- Dave, Dean, Ronnie, Ben, and the group -- you see that these ingredients and skills are deployed not in a zeal to impress, but simply to serve the neighborhood the best food and drink possible. Their love for their community shines through in the food, and naturally, the hand-crafted beers. Magnolia’s beers are unpretentious, delicious and reflective of both historic styles and modern cultural context -- exactly what craft beer should be. As Magnolia fans and peers, we dig that, ultimately, it’s all done for the people down the street (or down the state) that come in to eat, drink and enjoy. When cooks and brewers and proprietors care about you, everything tastes better.
When we work with Magnolia, it’s obvious that it’s a different restaurant than The Linkery. It’s situated in a unique neighborhood in a unique city with its own farmers and cultural landscape. When you combine that with the commitment to quality, the talent and the love for community, it creates a true human terroir that’s a joy to experience. Our recent “simul-dinner” illustrated that in spades. Throwing a party with these cats in two locations 500 miles apart with the same menu, at the same time, and via low-fi webcam was everything we expected: no-holds-barred deliciousness, great vibes, and beer and conversation deep into the night (plus, a notable aching of the head the next day).
Jay Porter is the owner of The Linkery and North Park Meat Co. in San Diego.
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This article originally appeared in the September/October 2009 of DRAFT Magazine
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