Magazines » November/December 2008 Issue » DRAFT Pick: Deschutes' The Dissident
The brewers at Deschutes have been perking up palates for two decades, but this year
has been particularly epic. 2008 saw the inauguration of the brewery's 20th Anniversary Wit, a hop bomb called Hop Henge and a high-octane beer dubbed Abyss. And over the years, they've brewed almost everything in between; however, this adventuresome staff had never taken on sour beers -- until now.
The Dissident is the most labor-intensive beer crafted by Deschutes. Due to the use of wild yeast strains, the beer was matured in an entirely separate facility and aged under lock and key in a bunker. Not to mention, the beer arrived nearly a year late. When the brewers first sampled the beer in late 2007, it was clear the yeasts still had some work to do, and the flavors needed more time to come together. This brew is worth the wait.
In line with the latest trend in American craft beer, The Dissident bottle is hand-dipped in wax to add a bit of flair to the presentation. While it can make the beer more difficult to open, wax dipping helps thwart oxidation if the beer's aged for several years.
The Dissident pours a dark brown with red highlights and a creamy russet head. It can actually be smelled from a distance: Powerful plum and caramelized nectarine aromas race to the nose. The first sip beautifully presents caramelized malt sweetness and a wallop of fruit flavors, from plum and dark pielike cherries to red apples laced throughout the swallow. The wood notes are quiet, as they softly grip the sides of the mouth late in the taste. There's a detectable sourness, but coupled with the sweet, fruity backbone, the tartness is refreshing and not mouth-puckering. The Dissident descends into a light sweetness and long-lasting fruit flavors -- a fine finish to a long-awaited beer.
Price: $9.99 for a 22-ounce bottle
Glassware: Tulip
Pair with: Try with rich, savory dishes like barbecue ribs, pork tenderloin or juicy Porterhouse steak.
Age: Up to three years
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This article originally appeared in the November/December 2008 Issue of DRAFT Magazine
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