Odell’s new stout was born of bovine inspiration.
Odell could have just as easily named its new milk stout Bambi, Tinkerbell, Deena or G.I. Jane, but with mugs that gorgeous (see above), it’s hard to pick just one covergirl. And so they named
the beer Lugene, an homage to the man behind those bovine smiles: Since 1994, Lugene Sas has fed “his girls”—the roughly 75 cows he greets by name each day—the brewery’s leftover grain and hops. Twice a day, Sas rolls his beat-up blue Chevy up to the brewery, where a pipe drops spent brewing material into the truck bed; back at his Taft Hill Dairy operation, he mixes it with organic hay and silage to form an all-fiber feed that yields a more nutrient-rich milk. Sas produces only raw milk (the creamy, unpasteurized stuff), which Coloradoans can drink by purchasing a milk share—essentially, becoming part-owner of one of Sas’ cows. A few Odell employees have shares, and top their cereal with what became of their used beer ingredients; Sas, in turn, is a fan of the brewery’s 90 Shilling Scotch ale. Lugene Chocolate Milk Stout, on shelves in January, is the best of both beverages; big roasted malts and an 8.5% ABV scream stout, while lactose and just a spot of vanilla make a glass taste dangerously close to chocolate milk.