DRAFT REVIEW: Matilda 2009

Matilda’s graceful on the shelf with its winelike label; leave it there for a year or two to up the ante of this gorgeous Brettanomyces yeast-based brew. Today, it pours golden yellow with a frothy, rocky head that unleashes a wild aroma: Bold lemon dances with thick earthiness akin to a wet grain field and juicy passionfruit. The taste is equally compelling: At first, the swallow’s almost simple, until the sour Brett notes emerge, adding a delightful pucker. Bright lemon ribbons and invigorating white sugar sweetness counter an elevated peppery hop bitterness to compose a harmonious sip. Light-medium bodied and gently carbonated, the beer offers a refreshing experience, but with age, the Brett yeast will manipulate the already fine flavors and give complexity and depth to the fruit.