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Champ du Blanc

 
RATING
96

Chardonnay grapes and oak-barrel aging impart the same bouquet they contribute to a buttery chardonnay: Layers of flaky croissant unfurl into grape must, custard and haylike funk, with just a splash of vinegar. Things sweeten on the tongue, where sugary white grape juice swirls in equal proportion with smooth wood; dried hay arrives just before the tongue-clinging tartness of the swallow.

 

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