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The aroma of this unfiltered, canned year-rounder opens with a crash of tangerine and grapefruit that settles into grungy onion and mulch atop multigrain bread. Dry, tortillalike malts and clementine oranges set the pace on the palate, while funky onion and tropical mango flit at the edges but never come to the fore. The flavors are refreshing and crisp, but the malts could be a touch sweeter; the perception of sticky, resiny bitterness is also a bit high for the style.


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