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Ninkasi, the mythical god of beer, would appreciate the spirit of this lively concoction: It presents a deep, reddish-gold appearance that glows under the light, highlighting a massive, frothy crown. Hops explode in the nose, cascading pithy grapefruit, sticky pine sap, and floral notes atop a caramel foundation. The tongue is briefly tricked by a wallop of übersweet caramel that’s almost instantly overrun by floral, fruity, and earthy hops. Resinous, citrusy, woody, and powerfully bitter, the hop flavors slowly unfold and last well into the aftertaste. While this alcohol-heavy, full-bodied beer proves a solid choice for hop lovers, in the end, the slew of hops could benefit from a sharper focus.


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