It’s been nearly three decades since Sierra Nevada first wowed us with the use of whole-flower, American-grown hops, but the brewery has proved it can still make waves with Torpedo, its first year-round IPA. Swirling with powerful hops, the nose is laden with sweet lemon and orange peel, and accented by sturdy malt scents. Tasting Torpedo is an exercise in patience: It begins slowly with deep malt sweetness, then ambles into citrusy, piney hops. The beer gets even more complex as the hops turn resinous and sticky (but not harsh). Sweetness soaks up the bitterness, but hops still grip the palate and create that IPA bite. While the body is fuller than expected, the carbonation is perfect and only tickles the tongue. Finishing with a stretch of hops, this beer’s power and sophistication won’t soon be forgotten.