The 18th arrondissement prides itself on being a part of, and apart from, Paris. This northern district, capped by its iconic Sacré-Coeur Basilica and surrounded by the colorful Montmartre neighborhood, retains typical Parisian charm but also offers a retreat from the hectic crowds of the city center. A haven for artists, expats and other freethinkers, the 18th is a refuge for those happy to break with tradition and embrace new tastes, which may be why this district was early to hop on the craft beer bandwagon.
Not only are you guaranteed to drink great craft brews at this beloved beer bar, you’re also sure to drink local. Claudia Lérin-Falliero, the owner, procures exclusively French beer from small breweries around the country. Come here to taste a variety of bier artisanale ranging from refreshing mountain spring water brews like an Oyster Stout or Sorachi Ace Bitter from La Brasserie du Mont Salève to hyperlocal Paris-area Deck & Donohue (known for its fabulous Mission Pale Ale) and the 18th arrondissement-based Brasserie de la Goutte d’Or (try the Chai Wheat). Plan your visit for happy hour, when half pints are only 2,50 euro. Claustrophobes should avoid game nights, when locals vie for space in front of the big screen to support the city’s soccer team, Paris Saint-Germain.
Brasserie de la Goutte d’Or
When Thierry Roche opened his brewery in the heart of the Goutte d’Or neighborhood in 2012, he was not only bringing Parisians one of their first craft breweries, but was brewing some of the most interesting beer the city had ever tasted. Inspired by the diversity of his 18th arrondissement neighborhood, Roche’s beers incorporate ingredients from the local African market, nearby Indian food shops and even the craft coffee roaster, Café Lomi. Thierry continues to brew favorites (named after streets in the 18th) such as Myrha Pale Ale and Ernestine IPA while continuing to experiment with new ingredients. A recent series of beers includes stouts made with basil, lemon verbena and mint.
Worn red upholstered benches, chipping yellow paint and the happy hum of beer drinkers make this corner bar a quintessential neighborhood watering hole. You’d be hard-pressed to find a more charming Parisian beer bar, sheltering a mix of beer lovers and those who are merely drawn by the reliably cozy and convivial ambience. Belgian beers, such as Brasserie d’Achouffe La Chuff and Brasserie Dubuisson Cuvée des Trolls, occupy the most draft real estate.
Le Festin Nu
Creepy is cool at this tiny bar on an enchanting street that climbs toward Montmartre. With regular screenings of horror films and insects on the menu—from water scorpions to grasshoppers—Le Festin Nu embraces the eerie. Take comfort in the revolving selection of beer on tap, which mixes local favorites from Brasserie Sainte Cru and inventive beers from Belgium’s Brussels Beer Project.
A la Bière Comme à la Bière
A large selection of international beers and the city’s only purchasable growlers (rue des Pyrénées location only) are the draw to this bohemian spot. The constant reggae soundtrack and laid-back ambience suggest an affinity for hemp beer and other related pleasures, but the staff remains friendly and the stock is solid, with an especially interesting selection of Scandinavian beers, including those from Mikkeller, Nogne Ø and To Øl.
A newcomer to the 18th arrondissement’s beer scene, Jurassique Snack serves Alpine and Alsatian-inspired food, from pulled pork and sauerkraut sandwiches to currywurst and hot dogs topped with melted Morbid cheese. The hearty fare pairs with a constantly changing selection of robust beers, which recently included offerings from Quebec-based Brasserie Dieu du Ciel.
Spanish charcuterie, including Iberico ham, comes together with Île-de-France beer at this sleek bistro near the town hall. The owners, Spaniards-turned- Parisians, combine the cuisine of their motherland with beers brewed in the area surrounding their adopted home. Stop in for a laid-back apéro and to test what’s new in the local scene.
Peoples Drug Store
Located on the northern end of the charming Rue des Martyrs, Peoples Drug Store is a cool place to pick up bottles to take home. The shop has a decent selection of French beer as well as some international favorites from Scotland’s BrewDog and the States’ Brooklyn Brewery.
A grandfather in terms of the Paris craft beer scene (the first shop opened its doors in 2007), Bières Cultes is a Montmartre institution. Here you’ll find a wide selection of Belgian beers as well as a small stock of eclectic brews that includes bottles from France-based Scottish brewer Craig Allen and cans from London-based Beavertown.
Bottle shop meets bistro at the concept cave, where wine and hard liquor are sold in bulk. Buy a refillable bottle on-site and fill it with wine from a variety of French regions. You’ll also find a small selection of craft beers (as well as a single, revolving draft beer) at both locations. Enjoy a selection of artisanal cheeses and charcuterie in the shop or try the amazing Jambon Beurre sandwich, made with the original Le jambon de Paris, for a picnic lunch to go.
This cozy coffee shop is where locals start their mornings. Collaborators in the making of Brasserie la Goutte d’Or’s 3ter, a Belgian triple made with three different Lomi-roasted coffee beans, the cafe also engages with its neighbors through regular coffee tastings and workshops that aim to raise awareness and appreciation for craft roasting.
Le Tout Monde
Another gem in the Goutte d’Or neighborhood, this bar specializing in natural wine (wine with little to no added sulfites) also serves the latest releases from their neighbor Brasserie la Goutte d’Or as well as bottles of Deck & Donohue. Seasonal, locally sourced ingredients mingle thoughtfully on a menu that often stretches pre-dinner drinks into entire evenings. Come for the craft beer, stay for the cozy Paris bistro atmosphere.